| Make-up application is a time consuming process and must appear quite daunting for the new maiko to try and perfect. The application of the make-up should go prior to dressing to avoid the risk of getting make-up on their kimono. At first, they apply a wax/oil substance (which is melted in their hand) called bintsuke-abura to their skin. It is applied to the face, neck, chest and nape area and helps for the white paste (foundation) to adhere. Then, white powder is mixed together with water into a paste and applied with a brush to the face, neck, chest and nape. It is interesting to know, the use of white lead for the face was quite common, but, as it is known today, it is highly toxic and must have lead to illnesses and an untimely death for some of the ladies who used it. But today, rather than the lead counterpart, modern cosmetics are now used for this purpose. Applying the foundation, they leave a line of bare skin around their hairline - this gives the illusion of wearing a mask. Also on the nape of the neck they leave two “V” shape lines unpainted. For the special occasions, (a maiko debuts, when maiko becomes a geisha and when formal kimono is worn) they leave three lines unpainted. The foundation has been applied. Then a large sponge is used and patted all over the face, throat, chest and nape of neck. This is used for soaking up the excess moisture from the water - and blend the entire foundation into a flawless mask. The next is painting their eyes and eyebrows. For the eyebrows they traditionally would have used charcoal to darken them, but today, it is more than likely modern cosmetics are used in their place. Maiko outlines the edges of her eyes with red and black as well. With time when a maiko becomes a geisha the amount of red in the eye make-up starts to decrease. Finally the red eye colour will be minimal or may even be excluded all together.
Be very careful and have a steady hand when applying the eye make-up. Because of one mistake in the application they might very well have to restart the whole make-up process right from the beginning as unlike western make-up, small (or large for that matter) alterations are almost impossible.. Lips, last but not least. They are filled in using a small brush. The colour comes in a small stick (traditionally sallflower), which is melted in water. Then they add a crystallized sugar to give the lips luster. Her first year Maiko paint only a little bit of colour on her center lower lip. It is originally originate from the fact that in Japanese history very small lips where once considered sensual and attractive. Nowadays, in this modern age though, it appears to be more of a tradition than anything else. When the first year past, Maiko start to colour their top lip, but never filling in the entire lip. They continue to paint their lips smaller when they become geisha, but eventually over time as her make-up becomes more clear and distinct, she starts to paint in her full lips.
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